Malta's Best

 

Malta is one of those rare places you can explore and discover for yourself, depending on what you're interested in. And, happily, it is safe enough to do just that. As well as small enough that you can get everywhere in a short time. 

 

From rural walks, sailing, diving, and other water activities, to underground caves and ancient temples, Malta will impress you in a short time. But there are some things you just shouldn't miss. The following are what we consider to be the best things in Malta, NOT in any particular order. 

 

BUSES. Virtually all buses begin and end in Valletta. 

 

An amazing 16th-century walled city that was built to protect Malta from a Turkish invasion. The city is made mostly of limestone and i's definitely an architectural wonder and Malta's current capital city. During the day it bustles with life and energy as a center of commerce and government. At night it is like a ghost town, a place of eerie, though lovely peace and quiet. 

 

The Fortress City, Citta' Umilissima, "a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen". Valletta has many titles, all recalling its rich historical past. It is the "modern" city built by the Knights of St John; a masterpiece of the baroque; a European Art City; and a World Heritage City. But these are just some of its faces and fortunes. 

 

Valletta is also Malta's capital city: a living, working city, the administrative and commercial heart of the Islands. Nowhere in Malta is the life of the Islands reflected more than here. The city is busy by day, yet retains a timeless atmosphere. The grid of narrow streets house some of Europe's finest art works, churches and palaces. 

 

Valletta hosts a vast cultural programme. Street events are staged against the city's magnificent baroque architecture and floodlit bastions. There is theatre and music and all manner of things to see and join in, from avant garde art to traditional church festas. The city is a delight to shop in: narrow side streets are full of tiny shops selling antiques, maps, books, prints and jewellery. For top quality fashion, music and much more try Valletta's main streets - Republic Street and Merchants Street. 

 

Walking around Valletta, you'll come across an intriguing historical site around every corner: votive statues, niches, fountains and coats of arms high up on parapets. And when you need to stop and take it all in, the city yields up squares, courtyards, gardens and any number of cafés, right on cue. 

 

History 

Valletta is named after its founder, the respected Grand Master of the Order of St John, Jean Parisot de la Valette. But the city really owes its birth to his arch enemy, Grand Turk Suleiman the Magnificent. 

 

When the Knights arrived in Malta in 1530, they had settled in the small village of Birgu (Vittoriosa), which was protected by Fort St Angelo. They managed to enlarge the old St Elmo watchtower on the Sceberras Peninsula opposite, but their defences were still weak. The strategic importance of Mount Sceberras was to become all too evident during the Great Siege. 

 

Valletta had been planned before the siege. But the plans could only be executed once a grateful Christendom had lavished riches on the Knights for their defeat of Suleiman. Pope Pius V and King Philip of Spain gave financial aid and loaned the services of an outstanding military engineer, the Italian, Francesco Laparelli. 

 

The magnificent fortress city grew on the arid rock of Mount Sceberras peninsula, which rises steeply from two deep harbours, Marsamxett and Grand Harbour. Started in 1566, Valletta was completed, with its impressive bastions, forts and cathedral, in the astonishingly short time of 15 years.

 

A Modern City

Laparelli had a unique opportunity to create the perfect city. Valletta may not strike you as a modern city, but it is one of the first examples of town planning based on a grid pattern of streets. 

 

The city catered well for all strata of society, from the Knights to their servants and trades people. Laparelli's design provided for fresh water to be piped in, and for sanitation; both advanced concepts for the time. The grid of streets allowed for fresh air from the two harbours to circulate easily in the narrow streets – a kind of city-scale air-conditioning. 

 

Valletta is a fine example of a planned, 16th century city: unusual for the times, since urban centres mostly evolved from earlier settlements. The rocky Mount Sceberras on which it was built was not an easy location: it took considerable levelling before construction could begin. La Valette died in 1568, before the city was completed. By 1571, enough of the city was built to allow the Knights to transfer from Birgu. 

 

Laparelli left Malta in 1570, but work was continued by the Maltese Architect Gerolamo Cassar. Cassar was responsible for most of the major early buildings from the Cathedral of St John to the Sacra Infermeria, the Auberges or Innes of Residence of the Knights and the Magisterial Palace. 

 

 Mdina

Mdina 

BUSES. from Sliema 65, from Valletta 80, 81, 83, 84. 

 

The history of Mdina and its suburb Rabat is as old and as chequered as the history of Malta itself. Mdina, Malta's medieval capital, can trace its origins back more than 4000 years. 

 

Rabat can claim the origins of Maltese Christianity. It was here in A.D. 60 that the Apostle St Paul is said to have lived after being shipwrecked on the Islands. Both Mdina and Rabat are fascinating to tour for their timeless atmosphere and their cultural and religious treasures. 

 

Mdina has had different names and titles depending on its rulers and its role. It was Melita to the Romans; Medina to the Arabs; and Citta' Vecchia, the old city, when Valletta became the lifeblood of the Islands. None describe it better than its medieval name, Citta' Notabile, the noble city. 

 

It was home then, as now, to Malta's noble families; some are descendants of the Norman, Sicilian and Spanish overlords who made Mdina their home from the 12th century onwards. 

 

Their Impressive palaces line its narrow, shady streets. Mdina is one of Europe's finest examples of an ancient walled city, and unusual in its mix of medieval and baroque architecture. 

 

 

 

 

Hagar Qim & Mnajdra

 

Hagar Qim Temple 

BUSES. from Valletta 38, 138. You can also take 65 from Sliema and transfer at Rabat to 38 or 138.

Cost. Adults LM1; Under-19 and Over-65 FREE. 

Hours. Usually 0830 to 1530. 

 

Discovered under rubble in 1839, dates from around 2400 - 2000 B.C. The largest megalith at Hagar Qim is some seven metres high and weighs around 20 tons. 

 

Much of interest has been unearthed at Hagar Qim, notably a decorated pillar altar, two table-altars and some of the `fat lady' statues on display in the National Museum of Archaeology, Valletta. The site itself has connotations with a kind of fertility cult. 

 

Another aspect of Hagar Qim is the small, three-apse structure near the temple - this may have been the quarters of the temple's priest. Other temple ruins stand a few metres away from the main temple. 

 

Mnajdra Temple

BUSES. from Valletta 38, 138. You can also take 65 from Sliema and transfer at Rabat to 38 or 138.

Cost. Adults LM1; Under-19 and Over-65 FREE. 

Hours. Usually 0830 to 1530.

 

This group stands isolated, about 600 metres further down cliff top. Mnajdra is made up of two sizeable temples and is thought to date from around 3400B.C. 

 

The temple construction shows the great skill of its builders. The concave, corbelled form of the walls indicates some sort of domed structure as roof. The third temple at Mnajdra is perhaps the finest surviving temple in Malta. 

 

The masonry shows intricate knowledge of building techniques and excellent workmanship. The spiral carvings and decorated, pitted slabs give an exceptional aspect to this remarkable site. 

 

The ruins of Mnajdra yielded valuable relics - stone and clay statuettes, shell and stone ornaments, flint tools and decorated earthenware. The lack of any metal objects here and at other similar temples is evidence of its Neolithic origin.

 

 

 

 

Marsaxlokk

BUSES. from Valletta 27, 427

 

Marsaxlokk Bay is Malta's second largest natural harbour. It is the best place to see the colourful, traditional Maltese fishing boats, the Luzzus, with the mythical eye painted on their prows. 

 

The village is the Islands' main fishing harbour; its Sunday fish market a fascinating insight into local life and a traditional industry. 

 

The stalls brim with the night's catch - fish of all shapes, colours and sizes. The village itself has many good fish restaurants. Marsaxlokk derives its name from the Arabic word marsa, meaning harbour, and Maltese for the south-easterly Mediterranean wind, the Xlokk (Sirocco in Italian). 

 

Marsaxlokk, with its sheltered habour, was an easy landing place for pirates and the Ottoman Turks. It was here that the Ottoman Turks landed for an attack which ended in the Great Siege of 1565. 

 

Napoleon's army landed here in 1798; and in recent times, the harbour was the scene of the Bush-Gorbachev Summit,1989. The headland to the left of the Bay is Delimara Point.

 

It has two attractive, secluded rocky inlets suitable for swimming: Peter's Pool; and the furthermost part of the headland. Fort Delimara, on the west of the peninsula, was built by the British in 1881 to guard the entrance to Marsaxlokk Bay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blue Grotto 

 

BUSES. from Valletta 34, 35, 38, 138. You can also take 65 from Sliema and transfer at Rabat to 38 or 138. 

 

Wied iz-Zurrieq is a picturesque inlet at the end of a spectacular rugged valley leading down to the sea. It serves as a small harbour for fishermen from nearby Zurrieq. From the inlet, you can take a short boat trip to a local beauty spot, the Blue Grotto. 

 

The Grotto is in fact an arched hollow denting the sheer cliffs. Nearby are a series of small, natural caves which provide some beautiful light effects.

 

The cave ceilings mirror the brilliant phosphorescent colours of the underwater flora. The best time to view is early in the morning and when the waters are calm. 

 

Boat trips run from 8am to 4pm daily in summer, weather permitting and last around 25 minutes. To check, phone 21 640058 / 21 649925.

 

Paceville

 

Other Temples 

The sheer number of archaeological sites here sets Malta's history apart from that of other Mediterranean destinations. There are megalithic monuments, Bronze Age dolmens, Punic tombs, remains of Roman Villas and traces of prehistoric man which defy explanation, such as the mysterious ‘cart' tracks. For three millennia, from around 5200 B.C., the archipelago was home to a unique, temple-building civilisation. 

 

Malta and Gozo's temples are thought to be the oldest free-standing buildings known to man. One site above all others is special to Malta – the Hypogeum, a labyrinth of underground chambers probably used as both a burial site and a temple. The Islands' temples are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are open to the public except when undergoing repairs. 

 

Borg in-Nadur Temple, Birzebuggia.

BUSES. From Valletta 11, 13, 15. 

tel: 21 221623 

fax: 21 243629 

Entrance Cost. Adults LM1; Under-19 and Over-65 FREE. 

 

These temple ruins are situated in the rich archaeological southern area of Malta. They are important because they appear to reveal not only a four-apse temple (c.2000 B.C.), but also a fortified, Bronze-age domestic settlement. The remains of a large, defensive wall lie nearby. 

 

The wall runs across the head of a promontory between two valleys leading down to St George's and Pretty Bay. Traces of the Bronze Age huts were discovered lying just behind the wall.

 

Ggantija Temples, Gozo.

BUSES. From Victoria 64, 65

Alda Xerri 

Xaghra 

Xaghra 

tel: 21 553194 

fax: 21 550107 

george.azzopardi@gov.mt 

Entrance Cost. Adults LM1; Under-19 and Over-65 FREE. 

 

The Ggantija Temples (place of giants) are thought to be the oldest free-standing structures in the world. They are among the best-preserved temples on the Maltese Islands. They are certainly the most visited historical site on the Maltese Islands. 

 

Excavated between 1816 and 1820, the complex comprises two Neolithic temples dating from the third millennium B.C (3600 to 3000 B.C.). 

 

The temples are made up of two separate units enclosed by a wall and sharing a common facade. The concave walls of the temples suggest that the whole structure was once roofed. In both temples, the inner apses have niches with rudimentary altars. 

 

The outer temple walls are impressive: the largest megaliths are round six by four metres and the wall may once have stood at a height of 16 metres. Traces of mortar indicate the temples were once plastered over. 

 

The large forecourt suggests that congregations would have gathered outside to attend rituals, while the inner rooms of the temple may have been reserved for the shaman or priest. During the 1827 excavations, pottery, vases and statuettes were unearthed. These are now displayed in the archaeology museums in Victoria and Valletta. 

 

Tarxien Temples. Tarxien, Paola Area.

BUSES. From Valletta 8, 11, 12, 13, 15, 26, 27, 29.

Entrance Cost. Adults LM1; Under-19 and Over-65 FREE.

Hector Seychell 

Neolithic Temples Street 

Tarxien 

tel: 21 695578 

fax: 

info@heritagemalta.org 

 

This unique complex lying today in the urban area of Tarxien dates from the third and fourth millennium B.C. This group of three temples was the last built on the Islands and is in a good state of preservation. 

 

Tarxien temples are noted for the detail of their carvings. Stone idols and tablets, domestic animals carved in relief, altars and screens decorated with spiral designs and other patterns, oracular chambers and riches all enhanced these temples. 

 

Originals of these artefacts, decorated megaliths and altars, as well as numerous pottery vases, are now housed for safekeeping in the National Museum of Archaeology. 

 

The skilful construction of the Tarxien temples and the elaborate design and workmanship found here suggest that the temple builders had gained considerable expertise over the millennia since the first, or Ggantija, phase of megalithic construction. 

 

The Tarxien site seems to have been used extensively for rituals, probably involving animal sacrifice. Two libation holes used for the offering of liquids are found near one altar, and animal bones were also discovered. 

 

Of interest at Taxien is the clue to how the temples were constructed: stone rollers left outside the south temple were probably used for transporting the megaliths. 

 

Remains of cremation have also been found here, which indicate the site was used by Bronze Age settlers too.

 

BUSES. From Valletta 47 

Open by appointment only. 

Mario Casha 

Museum Square 

Rabat 

tel: 21 239375 

fax: 21 234384 

mario.casha@gov.mt 

Ta ' Hagrat & Skorba Temples, Mgarr, west Malta. 

 

The Skorba ruins and Ta' Hagrat Neolithic temple are two interesting archaeological sites near Mgarr. Both sites are perhaps more of interest to archaeologists or the informed visitor. They are not generally open to the public. 

 

Skorba was excavated in 1966 by the eminent British archaeologist David Trump. Its importance lies in the material obtained during the dig which throws light on the pre-temple Neolithic period. 

 

The site is believed to be that of a Bronze Age domestic dwelling. Stone bases of primitive huts were also found on the site. Skorba is the only place with signs of dwellings used by Neolithic and Bronze Age peoples. The key to the site is available at the National Museum of Archaeology.Ta' Hagrat Neolithic Temples were discovered in 1925. 

 

It is the earliest standing temple building in Malta - its Gozo contemporary is the Ggantija temple complex. The group consists of two adjacent three-foil temples dating from around 3600 - 3300 B.C. 

 

One of the temples has several steps in front of the trilithon entrance, a stone pavement and a stone bench at its façade. Pottery remains found here are older than the temple and seem to indicate a pre-temple settlement in the area. 

 

BUSES. From Valletta 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 11, 12, 13, 15, 18, 19 

CURRENTLY CLOSED until further notice. 

Kordin III temples. Three Cities and Harbour Area. 

The temples were built during the Ggantija Phase (3600 - 3000 B.C.) and are regarded as the best-preserved trefoil structures on the Islands. The site was used as a battery against the French blockaded in Valletta in 1798. During World War II, aerial bombing further damaged the site. 

 

 

 

Hypogeum

 

BUSES. From Valletta 8, 11, 15, 26, 27, 29.

Cost. between Lm1 and Lm3. 

 

***SPECIAL NOTE for the Hypogeum, you must book your tickets well in advance. E-mail Mr joseph.h.farrugia@gov.mt or raymond.j.jones@gov.mt to reserve your tickets and avoid disappointment. 

 

Burial Street 

Paola PLA 03 

tel: 21805019/21825579 

fax: 21805021 

 

The Hypogeum has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Hypogeum is a labyrinthine complex of man-made chambers hewn out of the limestone extending some 11 metres below ground. 

 

It appears to have been used both as a burial site and as a temple. Neolithic man carved out the Hypogeum using only antlers and stone picks as tools, and in semi darkness. The Hypogeum is made up of three superimposed levels. The upper level resembles the earlier rock-cut tombs found elsewhere on the Islands. 

 

The middle level, hewn out during the temple period (3800 - 2500 B.C.) is made up of numerous chambers. Many statuettes, amulets, figurines and vases were recovered here. The most famous figurine is that of the so-called Sleeping Lady, a reclining figurine, perhaps meant as a representation of eternal sleep. It is on display at the National Museum of Archaeology, Valletta. 

 

On Monday, Wednesday and Friday, seven tours will be conducted, starting on the half hour from 8.30 to 15.30 (last tour) with the exception of 12.30. On Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, five tours will be conducted on the half hour from 8.30 to 12.30 (last tour).

 

 

 

Mosta

 

BUSES. From Valletta 45, 49, 58, 56.

 

The town's name derives from the Arabic `musta', meaning centre. Mosta lies at the heart of Malta, along the Great Fault that runs east-west across the Island. It was only a hamlet in medieval times, but began to develop at the turn of the 17th century after the Great Siege. 

 

Today it is a busy market town. At its centre is a magnificent domed church (completed in 1860), the Mosta Rotunda, said to be the third largest unsupported church dome in Europe. It was built to imitate the Pantheon in Rome, by Maltese architect George de Vasse. 

 

In World War II, the Church took a direct hit from a German bomb during mass. The bomb pierced the dome, but failed to explode. This event is now regarded as miraculous intervention. You can see a replica of the 200kg bomb in the sacristy. 

 

The building of the church was revolutionary in its day: the Mosta Rotunda was constructed over the old church which was only demolished at the last minute. 

 

Mosta is associated with several legends which inspired the building of small devotional chapels: the cave chapel of St Paul the Hermit in a picturesque valley; and the Chapel of Our Lady of Hope, built as thanksgiving for the safety of a local girl attacked by pirates raiding inland from Salina Bay. 

 

Within the limits of Mosta there are also prehistoric remains such as catacombs under Fort Mosta, and Bronze Age dolmens. Mosta also lies on the Victoria Lines, the British fortifications built along the Great Fault.

 

 

 

 

 

Buskett Gardens 

 

BUSES. From Valletta 81.

 

Buskett Gardens or `Forest', Malta's only large area of woodland, was planted by the Knights as a hunting ground. It lies next to Verdala Palace, in a valley, just inland from Dingli Cliffs. 

 

The brainchild of Grand Master Lascaris, Buskett has vineyards, orangeries, olive and lemon groves, and is heavily wooded with native, hardy species such as Mediterranean pines. You can stick to the pathways lined with ivy-clad stone walls or venture off into the woodland. 

 

From autumn to spring you are bound to find plenty of interest, from wild flowers, natural springs, and woodland creatures. The wood leads up hill to the more formal gardens of Verdala Palace. 

 

The `forest' is the venue for a lively summer tradition - the feast of L'Imnarja, a folk festival and harvest thanksgiving. Buskett is a good picnic spot all year round. . 

 

 

 

Dingli Cliffs 

 

BUSES. From Valletta 81, Sliema 65 then change at Rabat.

 

The village of Dingli lies on a plateau some 250 metres above sea level just in land from the spectacular Dingli Cliffs. 

 

The area provides not only open sea views over the tiny, uninhabited isle of Fifla, but also an excellent vantage point over Malta. From the cliffs there are views inland of nearby Buskett Gardens and Verdala Palace. 

 

The countryside here is ideal for walking. Dingli today is a quiet, rural area though in late medieval times it was one of Malta's largest parishes. 

 

The parish church of St Mary, originally built in 1678, dominates the skyline. The streets around it are narrow and winding and typical of an old agricultural village. Perched on the cliff top is the smaller wayside chapel of St Mary Magdalene, dating from 1646. 

 

Within the limits of Dingli are several prehistoric sites: the so-called 'cart ruts', unexplained parallel tracks hewn in the rock; and several megalithic structures. 

 

 

 

 

Blue Lagoon 

 

BUSES. Take 45 or 645 to the Ferry in Cirkewwa and then look for the signs for the boat to Comino. 

 

Comino's main attraction today is the Blue Lagoon, a sheltered inlet of shimmering aquamarine water. It is a popular day trip for cruises. The Lagoon together with the isle's other bays - St Mary's and St Nicholas' - with their crystal clear waters make Comino the ideal choice for most kinds of water sports, especially diving and snorkelling. 

 

Comino is worth a visit all year round. In winter, it is ideal for walkers and photographers. With the clear warm seas, water sports enthusiasts will find Comino's only beach hotel offers a full range of water sports and amenities

 

 

Beaches

 

Mellieha Bay 

BUSES. From Valletta 43, 44, 45, 50, 452

Malta s largest and most popular sandy beach. It lies on the coast road leading to Cirkewwa and the Gozo ferry. There are no undercurrents here so the bay offers safe bathing and the shallow waters make it ideal for children. 

 

Mellieha has all the facilities you need. The old village of Mellieha is perched on the hill above the bay, but you will find plenty of cafes, restaurants and a few small hotels on the coast road itself. 

 

There are also kiosks on the fringes of the beach. There is a good choice of fun and sport activities from banana boat rides to pedallo hire. 

 

Mellieha is large enough not to become too crowded except at weekends during the peak summer months. It is also popular with windsurfers and water skiers. The north-easterly wind here and the wide inlet provide excellent windsurfing conditions almost all year round. 

 

Behind the bay, across the road, is Ghadira Nature Reserve. Ghadira is a brackish marshy area with shallow reedy ponds. It is home to a variety of small mammals and lizards and is a stop over for migratory birds. 

 

 

Golden Bay 

BUSES. From Valletta 47, 51, 52, From Sliema 652One of Malta s most popular sandy beaches. Despite this accolade, it is set among countryside and is relatively undeveloped. 

 

It does have the facilities you need for the day: a café-restaurant, sun lounger and umbrella hire, and plenty of fun water sports from jet skiing and paragliding to banana boat rides. It has easy access making it suitable for the less mobile or those with small children. 

 

The atmosphere here is both chic and family fun. As the second largest sandy beach, there is usually room for games. The spectacular sunsets here have made the beach a popular spot for evening barbecues. The beach is generally safe for swimming but it is prone to strong currents when the wind is to the north-west. A red flag indicates when bathing should be limited to the shallow waters only. 

 

The Sliema Beaches

BUSES. From Valletta 62, 67, 68.

The Sliema and St Julian's coastline is thronged with sunbathers during the peak summer months. From Qui-si-Sana in Sliema to Balluta Bay in St Julian's, it is one long stretch of rocky shore. But popular none the less with sun bathers and swimmers. 

 

Steps and handrails placed every so often allow easy access to the water. There are plenty of flat rocks to spread a towel on. The sea here is deep, but generally clean, clear and safe to swim. It is also excellent for snorkelling. 

 

Some hotels along the front, especially at the St Julian's end, provide beach concessions equipped with pools, water sports and lido areas for nightlife. The favourite beach areas are: the Tigne' area, Qui si-Sana, Ghar id-Dud, the Exiles and Fond Ghadir. Some are well- known lidos or `beach clubs' though the entire coastline is public access. 

 

The Sliema beaches become a very sociable, lively place to be by mid-afternoon in peak summer. The promenade is excellent for long, striding walks in winter, slow strolls on summer evenings and for watching the wave drama during freak autumn storms. 

 

You will find plenty of snack bars and restaurants on the coast road and kiosks near the shoreline.

 

 

Delimara Point 

BUSES. From Valletta 27.

Delimara Point is the headland to the East of Marsaxlokk Bay. It offers a pleasant view of Marsaxlokk Bay and the Freeport Terminal. At the tip of Delimara is one of Malta's most secluded and attractive rocky inlets. 

 

The shoreline is accessible down a steep flight of steps. Flat rocks provide a good beach area with some shade. The inlet is not suitable for small children to swim in. Also on Delimara Point is another beauty spot and rocky inlet, Peter's Pool. Both beaches are relatively quiet, even in peak summer months. 

 

Bugibba and Qawra

BUSES. From Valletta 49, 57, 58.

These are Malta's largest, seaside resort towns. The coastline promenade stretches from Salina Bay to St Paul's Bay taking in some of the Islands' best open sea views and a vista over to St Paul's Island. 

 

The shore is rocky, but that has not prevented the resorts' appeal. The flat rocks provide places for sun bathing and there are access points every so often for swimmers. 

 

The water is deep, but generally clean, clear and safe for bathing. The Qawra promontory to the north west has been developed into a distinct resort with hotels along the coastline and numerous holiday apartments just inland. 

 

Salina Bay takes its name from the salt pans cut in inner segment of this sea inlet. The water on both verges of the bay is not deep but is quite suitable for swimming off the rocks. The bay is popular throughout the summer. 

 

 

Catacombs

 

BUSES. From Valletta 80, 81, Bugibba 86, Sliema 65. 

Hours. October to June. 

Mon-Fri 0900 to 1200, then 1300 to 1700, Sat 0900 to 1300.

St Agatha's Catacombs 

The martyr St Agatha is said to have hidden in these catacombs during the persecution of the Christians by the Roman Emperor Decius in 249 A.D. The catacombs are important also for their remarkable medieval frescoes, some dating from the 12th century. 

 

A characteristic feature of Maltese catacombs are the `agape tables' hewn out of the rock. Here, mourners would hold a `wake' - probably a farewell meal - in honour of the deceased. The catacombs, which belong to the Church, are situated in lovely surroundings among trees and shrubs. The small museum at the entrance displays a varied and interesting collection ranging from coins to Roman, Etruscan and Egyptian artefacts.

 

BUSES. From Valletta 80, 81, Bugibba 86, Sliema 65. 

 

St Paul's Catacombs

St Paul's Catacombs is the largest of Rabat's catacomb complexes. At 3sq km i t is an incredible labyrinth of corridors and burial chambers that reveal three basic styles of graves.

 

The first is a type of canopied grave that is like a four-post bed. Another, called the loculus, rectangular space cut into the limestone wall to hold the grave of a child. Others graves, called floor graves, are cut into the floor and would have been covered with rock. 

 

Throughout the grave sites there are tables and benches that were likely used by families for a religious service for those recently laid to rest.

 

 

 

Churches

 

You can't help but notice the Islands' baroque churches, their red or silver painted domes in relief against the skyline. They form an integral part of the Islands' countryside, dominate village squares and are at the heart of Maltese social and cultural life.

 

In total there are 360 churches on Malta and 40 on Gozo. Incredible for a population of 400,000 people. 

 

The festa in honour of the parish patron saint is celebrated as strongly as ever. Each church is an architectural masterpiece with its own distinct style. Each has its own history and houses unique relics and treasures. 

 

History & Architecture 

The Knights of St John brought much-needed funds to the Islands, and the impetus to build more elaborate churches. Many of the older, simple medieval chapels were pulled down or developed in the baroque parish churches we see today. Old St Gregory's in Zejtun is a fine example of how the Knights adapted earlier chapels. It is also the oldest example of a dome construction in Malta. 

 

Although the Knights arrived in 1530, it was around half century before they began to build the parish churches we see today. Their first concern had been to fortify the Islands against further Saracen attacks and to build Valletta. The Golden Age of peace and prosperity that followed the Great Siege in 1565, saw riches from Europe flow into Malta to build and endow Malta's churches. 

 

Two Maltese architects, Gerolamo Cassar and Tumas Dingli are considered the leading architects of the pre-baroque period. Dingli designed the old parish churches of Attard and Birkirkara. St Mary's, Attard, dating from 1613, is considered the finest Renaissance church in Malta. The Islands have little of the Renaissance period as they were left poor and neglected during the ‘dark ages' under Aragonese rule. 

 

Other early churches of the Knights are those dedicated to St Roque at Balzan and Zebbug. They retain much of the venacular simplicity of medieval times and are, like the austere façade of St John's Co-Cathedral, Valletta, good examples of the pre baroque period. 

 

The main period of church building was from the 17th – 18th centuries when Italian baroque style flourished. The main architect of the time was Lorenzo Gafa', a Maltese trained in Rome. Gafa' was to design some of Malta's most impressive baroque churches. His favoured style of elegant domes and majestic exteriors is the symbol of Maltese baroque. Among his finest are the Mdina and Gozo Cathedrals, the churches of San Lawrenz, Vittoriosa; St Catherine, Zejtun; St Nicholas, Siggiewi; and the parish church at Gharb, Gozo. 

 

The 19th and 20th centuries also saw considerable additions to existing baroque churches, and the building of neo-gothic churches, such as the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes at Mgarr, Gozo. Major churches built in the late 19th century are the two rotundas: the Church of St Mary at Mosta, and the Church of St John the Baptist at Xewkija, Gozo. 

 

 

 

 

 

Museums

 

Malta is known as an open air museu m for the sheer number of ancient temple sites, architectural and historical treasures, as well as churches and underground catacombs and tombs. 

 

But the country also boasts significant museums which you should not miss. 

 

The National Museum of Archaeology, Valletta. 

National Museum of Archaeology 

Charles Borg 

Auberge de Provence, Republic Street 

Valletta VLT 04 

tel: 21 239545 

fax: 21 243628 

carmel.a.borg@gov.mt 

BUSES. All. 

Cost. Adults Lm1.50 Under 19 and over 65 free 

Hours. 0830 to 1530.

Housed in one of the inns of residence of the Knights of St John - the Auberge de Provence - the museum contains the more important finds from the many prehistoric sites across the Islands. On chronological display are items of pottery, sculptures, statuettes, stone implements and personal ornaments. 

 

Typical examples of Punic and Roman tomb furniture are on display along with the museum's most prized exhibits - the Maltese Venus and the Sleeping Lady - the latter, a prehistoric, clay figurine of exquisite workmanship, was found at the Hypogeum. 

 

The museum has extensive interpretation of the prehistoric, megalithic and temple-building periods with models of the temples, with a reconstruction of part of the prehistoric remains found at the Hypogeum. The Auberge is worth a visit in itself for its imposing architecture and interior. 

 

It was designed in 1574 by Maltese Architect Girolamo Cassar, the man who was responsible for most of Valletta's other main public buildings, including St John's Cathedral. Due to restoration, only the prehistory section is open to the public. The museum also acts as a small exhibition venue for contemporary artists working in Malta

 

 

The National Museum of Fine Arts, Valletta and Floriana. 

BUSES. All routes go to Valletta.

Cost. Adults Lm1. Children and Seniors Free.

Hours. 0830-1630 Monday to Saturday. 0830-1430 Sundays. 

From June 16th to Sept 30 closed after 1400.

This splendid palace, known as Admiralty House during the British period, was originally erected in 1570 and restored in the 1960s. 

 

It is well worth a visit both for the art collection it houses and to see one of Valletta's most elegant palaces. From 1821 to 1961, it was the official residence of the British Naval Commander-in-Chief and hosted famous naval men - the last being Lord Mountbatten of Burma, commander of the British fleet in the Mediterranean during World War II. 

 

Today, it houses a valuable collection of art with works by Domenico de Michelino, Carpaccio, Perugino, Tintoretto, Guido Reni, Mathias Stromer, Mattia Preti, Ribera, Tiepolo, Antoine de Favray and Claude Vernet. 

 

A section of the museum is devoted to works by Maltese artists and sculptors such as Antonio Sciortino, Edward Caruana Dingli, Francesco Zahra and contemporary artists. Also on show are sculpture and furniture and other works of art connected with the Order of St John, notably the `monetarium' - a collection of coins and medals that can be viewed by appointment.

 

 

The St James Centre for Creativity, Valletta.

Cost. Free. 

Hours. 1000 to 2330 daily.

As a millennium project, St James Cavalier was transformed into a Centre for Creativity, adapting internal spaces to modern use. It now provides a backdrop for numerous exhibitions, recitals, concerts, festivals and cinema shows. 

 

The Museum of Archaeology, Victoria, Gozo

Stephen Cini 

Triq Bieb L-Imdina, The Citadel. 

Victoria VCT 104 

tel: 21 556144 

fax: 21 559008 

george.azzopardi@gov.mt 

BUSES. All. 

Cost. Adults Lm1.50 Under 19 and over 65 free 

Hours. 0830 to 1530.

Housed in Palazzo Bondi', this museum showcases archaeological finds from the 11 phases of prehistoric Gozo, as well as the Classical World to the Middle Ages. Items include objects from the Ggantija temples as well as from excavations from the Cittadella itself and from other sites in Victoria or from the rural areas of Gozo. A section of the Museum includes items discovered at sea, off the Gozitan coastline. 

 

 

 

The Three Cities

 

The Three Cities offer an intriguing insight into Malta and its history. Left largely unvisited, the Three Cities are a slice of authentic life, and a glimpse into Malta's maritime fortunes. 

 

The Three Cities can rightly claim to be the cradle of Maltese history. Vittoriosa and Senglea on rocky promontories jutting into Grand Harbour, and Cospicua at the end of the creek between, have provided a home and fortress to almost every people who settled here. 

 

Their harbour inlets have been in use since Phoenician times: the docks always providing a living for local people, but also leaving them vulnerable when Malta's rulers were at war. As the first home to the Knights of St John , the Cities' palaces, churches, forts and bastions are far older than Valletta's. 

 

The local communities here celebrate holy days and festas as nowhere else on the Islands. The most spectacular events are the Easter processions when statues of the "Risen Christ" are carried at a run through crowded streets. Another attraction is the Birgu Festival in October which re-enacts the arrival of the Knights on Malta in 1530. 

 

Although renamed by the Knights to reflect their victory over the Ottoman Turks, the Cities are still called by their older names of Birgu, L'Isla and Bormla. They are known as the ‘Cottonera' after the Grand Master Cottonerwho built their inland defences. Understanding this name game is all part of discovering a fascinating area of the Islands 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sliema

 

BUSES. From Valletta 60, 62, 63, 64, 66, 67, 68. From Rabat 65. 

 

Sliema and the coastline up to neighbouring St Julian's constitutes Malta's main coastal resort. It is a centre for shopping, restaurants and caf'e life. Sliema is also a major commercial and residential area and houses several of Malta's most recent hotels. 

 

Sliema, which means `peace', was once a quiet fishing town on the peninsula across Grand Harbour from Valletta. The town began to develop rapidly in the early 20th century as a summer resort for wealthier Valletta residents. 

 

Their elegant villas and town houses line the quiet, inland streets. The Sliema promontory offers on one side stunning views across to Valletta and on the other, open sea views. 

 

The promenade, which runs for several kilometres from Gzira just south of Sliema to St Julian's, is ideal for walker and joggers. There are plenty of seats along the promenade and on summer evenings the seafront becomes a sociable meeting place for locals. The coastline has two tower fortifications: a De Redin watch tower built in the 17th century; the other was built by the British in neo-gothic style in the 1880s.

 

 

 

St. Julian's

 

BUSES. From Valletta 62, 64, 66, 67, 68.

 

St Julian's is now an extension of Sliema although it started life as a small fishing port based on Spinola and Balluta Bays. 

 

Like Sliema, it is now a major residential and tourist centre, and home to some of Malta's newest hotels. 

 

St Julian's merges with Paceville, Malta's main nightlife centre where there are clubs, casinos and numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. 

 

Picturesque Spinola Bay is still used by fishermen whose traditional boats are housed just below the restaurants. The bay is particularly attractive at night and as a venue for open-air dining. T

 

he elegant Spinola Palace, built in 1658 by an Italian knight, Giovanni Spinola, is the landmark historic building on the bay. Another fine building with superb sea views is Villa Dragonara, now a casino, on the headland of St George's Bay.

 

 

Marsaskala

 

BUSES. From Valletta 19. 

Marsaskala (a.k.a. Wied il-Ghajn) has developed only in recent years from a small fishing village into the popular southern resort it is today. 

 

The harbour is still used by a few fishermen, their colourful Luzzu sharing the moorings with pleasure craft. 

 

Life here is centred on the long harbour promenade with its many open-air cafes and restaurants. For much of its past the village was a tranquil backwater, though it has seen its share of the Islands' main historical events. 

 

Marsascala Bay made easy landing for Barbary Corsairs and Ottoman Turks who raided the Islands from the Middle Ages to the late 17th century. After a large Ottoman fleet landed here in 1614, the Knights set about improving the bay's defences, building the imposing Fort St Thomas in nearby St Thomas' Bay. 

 

Locals built their own domestic versions. The Mamo Tower on the road to Zejtun, now fully restored, is a fine example of a fortified farmhouse. It was built in a unique shape - the cross of St Andrew. It is open to the public on the first Sunday of the month from 10.00 - 12.00. For details contact the heritage trust, Din l-Art Helwa, tel: 21220388.

 

 

 

St Thomas Bay

BUSES. From Valletta 29.

St Thomas' Bay, a ten-minute walk around the headland from Marsascala Bay, is another large natural inlet typical of the southern coastline. It is popular with local people and provides excellent windsurfing conditions. The beach, only partly sandy, is not developed as a resort though there are refreshment kiosks nearby. It is accessible for bathing though skirted by some high cliffs. 

 

 

Architecture

 

rchitecture in Malta is dominated by the two main institutions that steered the Islands' history: the Order of the Knights of St John and the Catholic Church. After the Great Siege of 1565 and the end of the Saracen threat, the Knights set about transforming the Islands into the home of some of Europe's finest architectural, cultural and artistic works. 

 

The Islands, at the fringes of Europe and under constant attack from corsairs and the Saracens, missed out on the artistic flourishing of the Renaissance.

 

Maltese architecture in the Middle Ages and up to the early 16th century, consisted mainly of square, flat-roofed wayside chapels and farmhouses. Other religious sites were rock-cut grottos and cave chapels, some of which exist today: St Paul's Catacomb , Rabat and the Chapel of Our Lady at Mellieha . A rare example of medieval religious architecture, complete with well-preserved frescos, is the small chapel at Hal Millieri near Qrendi.

 

The finest buildings before the Baroque were in the old Norman capital, Mdina , home of the Maltese nobility whose Siculo (Sicilian)-Norman style palazzos flank the narrow streets. The Mdina Cathedral however was destroyed by the earthquake of 1693 and rebuilt in baroque style by the Knights